| Noticed that the old VTF's pics in the original EFI harness how-to were X'd out. Some guys on here were asking what's the easiest way to do it so I thought I would throw up a post since I was gonna go this today anyways. I went in baby detail steps assuming this would be for first timers, folks familiar with it may use other methods but this hasn't failed me yet and keeps mistakes to a minimum. ****************************************** WHAT YOU NEED:
*EFI Harness (I picked this harness up from Yugobernie, also in this install I used a 95 harness on my 91 TT 5spd, please be familiar with harness differences from year to year if you plan on swapping rather than using your original year)
*10mm socket w/extension on socket wrench
*Wire cutters (prices vary)
*Electric tape (under a $1)
*Black Sharpie or marker (around $1)
*Handled pick (set is around $3 at local auto store) or very small flatheads (usually the type in a small precision pack...usually available at auto store for around $5)
*A few 6 to 9 inch zip ties (optional).
*Dialectric grease ($2.89 at local auto store)
 GETTING STARTED:
*NOTE - this post is started assuming you've pulled the engine out already and cut the old harness using wire cutters near the location it goes into the firewall. If you haven't gotten there yet take the time to remove the older harness as well as the grommet boot and get to this point.
 Now that you've cut the old harness it's time to pull the harness out. The blue ECU connector can be taken off with a 10mm wrench and disconnect the white box as well. Pull on the last of the harness from inside the cabin and it should just slip out easily. This is pretty much what is left of the old harness. Cut off the white box with about an inch of slack to clearly see the wires. This will be your back up diagram for de-pinning the white box on the new harness.
 This is the new harness fresh from Yugobernies. I opted to add some heat sleeving on mine but this isn't necessary for re-instillation. Take a moment to locate the blue ECU connector covered with a white plastic protector and the white box...note the firewall boot grommet.
 Remove the white plastic protector on the blue ECU connector. Should come off easily with the pick.
 Now take a moment and cover the entire blue ECU connector with electric tape. You are doing this to protect the inside of the connector chambers from getting debris in them when you fish this part of the harness through the firewall in a bit. Also, if you do it tightly it will be a bit slimmer as well for when you have to fish it through.
 Now onto the white box. Before we de-pin this box you will need to pop off the yellow wire alighner on the rear. Use the pic and it should come of easily.
 From here we take a moment and label. Locking at the picture below you will notice the white box is broken up in three section by a wall. We will label each section a quadrant...Q1, Q2 and lastly Q3. We will do this to help prevent wire to quadrant mixups.
 Here is how you should look when it's done. Remember that old white box from the old harness? You will need to label it exactly the same way as it will be a point of reference if you get mixed up later.
 Now as an added back up. Take each quadrant of wires and seperate them as well. After that electric tape them together to keep them seperated.
 Now you can begin to de-pin each connector while working in a quadrant at a time. Take a small flat head screwdriver or pin and at the base of each connector will be a little locking pin. Push down on the pin and with another screwdriver press the actual connector back, it will then go back. You can also use the old original white box as practice but DO NOT MIX UP THE WIRES.
 After you've done all three quadrants of wires, tape each quadrant of connector tips together and label them according to the quadrant as so using a Sharpie or marker. Yet another precaution to keep from mixing up wires.
 Now take a zip tie and zip ties the 3 bundles to the bulk of the harness then go over it all with electric tape to protect the connectors as well. Try to make it as firm as possible to make the harness to be routed as this thin as possible.
 And this is pretty much what your harness
should like to this point. Notice the exposed group of wires in the middle.
 Now we will electric tape the prementioned exposed group of wires in the middle. Tightly wrap this section together. If you try to route the harness with the group exposed it will split and not give you the force you will need to route it through the firewall. This will be extremely helpful, especially if you are stuck doing a one man harness install.
 Now the harness is prepped and you can begin to route it through the firewall. The trick is to fish the harness not directly down but at an angle..or more so at a 7 O'clock angle. The route for the harness goes down and to the left. Push the blue ECU connector through and if you bound everything tightly together it should go through will non-threatening pushes.
 Now that the harness is through you will need to re-pin the white box again. Remember to work in quadrants and use the old white box as a reference wire color guide. Remove the zipties or electric tape holding the pins to the bulk of the harness and expose the pins to get ready for re-pinning. Each pin will slide in and you will need to listen for the click, which will confirm each pin is locked into position. Work through the quadrants and double check everything using the original white box once more.
 Remove the last of the electric tape covering the blue ECU connector and the middle section and you are pretty much finished. This is what you should end up with in the passenger floor panel after everything.
 Finally just take your dialectric grease and apply it to each connector on the harness that is inside the engine bay. After this you've got a fully installed harness that is corrosion resistant and ready to be hooked up to your VG.
 
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EFI Harness install using de-pinning method....(detailed) - 
